Eric Rodez – Ambonnay

Cuvee Crayeres 60P, 40CH blend of 2007 down to 2002. 25% oak dosage 6g – partial malo 80%.
Marvellous weight and freshness – minerals and spice – great length here – maybe the best version of this so far. For a base cuvee- this is quite extraordinary.

Blanc de Blancs 100CH from 2006 back to 2000. 60% in barrel. dosage 5g
Perfumed and very spicy – unusual to see a pure Chardonnay from Ambonnay – all southern exposure – partial malo of only 30%.

Blanc de Noirs 100PN, from 2006 down to 1999 reserve wines. 35% malo dosage 5g.
Quite a feminine style – lovely red fruit purity – great length – unique. Superb.

Brut Zero 30CH 70PN from 2004 down to 2000 reserve wines. 25% partial malo – dosage 0.
From an older base wine – but similar to the Crayeres – flavour profile is really quite different – really spicy – with floral and dried fruit overtones.Excellent.

Rose 45PN maceration for two days, 30PN, 25CH, dosage 5g, 75% barrel from 2006 back to 2000 reserve wines.
Here with have red fruits, sour cherries all in balance with the Chardonnay component adding some real elegance and finesse.

Millesime 2004. 50PN 50CH 80% in barrel – dosage 5g- partial malo 15%.
A powerfull wine, camomile at the start, apricots and white flowers. Certainly a great vintage and probably better than the 2002. Great length and complexity. Superb.

Cuvee Grand Vintages 30CH 70PN solera from 2004 back to 1995 dosage 4g, 100% barrel no malo.
A very pure expressive nose – minerals with cocoa and coffee notes – hints of sherry – long and intense. Amazing! Standout.

Mystery wine – NV rose from blend 1995, 1993, 1992 and 1990. Dosage 10g.
Disgorged 10 years ago.Caramel and honeyed elements, mushrooms, red fruits, salty chocolate overtones – superb.

Ledru – Ambonnay

Some wines tasted a la volee with no dosage of course.

2006 Brut Nature – purity and finesse – hints of citrus and apricots.
2007 Goulte Nature – really quite superb – 100PN – unctuous and red fruity but not heavy. I prefer the Nature over the regular dosaged cuvee.
2008 Rose Saignee – wow – the acidity of 2008 works so well in counterpoint with the subtle tannins.

Extra-Brut 2008 base, 85PN 15CH, dosage zero.
Wow the purity and minerality here is an absolute standout, there is a hint of red fruit and hazelnut but never overpowering. SUPERB

2002 Brut Nature 85PN 15CH
One of my favourites of all time, great length and lovely spicy red fruits, confiture, hints of apricot – very complex. SUPERB

Brut 2009 base dosage 8g 85PN 15CH
Complex but a little too rich for me – I prefer the extra-brut.

2007 Millesime 85PN 15CH dosage 8g
Large framed – complex and weighty – honeyed and apricots. Very good.

2007 Goulte 100PN dosage 8g
Really very fine and handles the dosage very well. Mineral and pure – stone fruits – apricots. Superb.

Rose assemblage 2008 base 100PN dosage 8g
Sour cherries – salty – chalky – toasty – perfect balance – very good.

Laherte Freres – Chavot

A new cuverie is just being excavated just next to the house – refer to a photo in the album below. Also the old Brut Tradition cuvee is being relaunched with a new label and name – Ultradition.

Brut Tradition blend of 2009 and 2008 60PM,30CH,10PN – 50% of total production. 5o% tank, 50% barrel. dosage 6g
Each year this cuvee just gets better and better. Now more mineral and smoky – citrus and quince overtones – purity and finesse. Very nice.

Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature 100CH 2009/2008 full barrel maturation.
This cuvee is becoming more and more refined each year. Even though a Nature – it does not taste like a nature – really very complex – minerals with not too much excess fat – long and saline. Very good.

Les Clos blend of 2006 to 2009. dosage 4g all in barrel.
Now a perpetual reserve – no malo – the acidity is intense and fine grain – blend of 7 vareties including Arbanne, Petit Meslier, Pinot Blancs and Fromenteau. The solera will give this cuvee a more solid foundation as the vines are still quite young. Very good.

Les Vignes d’Autrefois 2008 dosage 4g 100PM
The acidity of the 2008 vintage raises this cuvee to a new level of intense purity and minerals. Superb.

Les Empreintes  2007 dosage 4g 40CH 40PN 20PM no malo.
Nice oak spice, very closed still, needs time but very classy. Superb.

Millesime 2005 80CH 15PM 5PN dosage 4g, 30% new oak no malo.
Very classy, cumquat and quince over minerals and chalk, all in a large framed style – such is 2005. Very good.

La Pierre Justice 2008/2009. dosage 8g
Classically made in tank – old style for the customers who still like this. A little four square compared to the new generation of wines.

Rose Tradition 2009/2008 dosage 8g
Similar to Brut Tradition with addition of red wine. Complex and spicy – round and savoury – very nice.

Rose Saignee Les Beaudiers 2007 100PM
12 hour maceration, no malo dosage 2g. Tight with some tannin showing, spice with sour cherries. Not a big wine – quite restrained.

 

Marc Hebrart – Mareuil-sur-Ay

1er Cru Blanc de Blancs 2008 76% 2007 24% 60CH 60% Oiry 40% Mareuil Dosage 8g /litre
A smoky complex style, the Oiry acidity is balanced by the Mareuil richness.  Beautifull wine.

Cuvee Selection 65PN 35CH from 2008 and reserve wines. Dosage 7.5g
Here we see more red fruits and a more open style – with honey overtones. A very elegant thought provoking style. Classy.

Special Club 2006 55PN from Mareuil, 45CH from Oiry and Chouilly 6.5g
Here we see pure white floral overtones – minerals and sensational finesse and elegance. Excellent.

Cuvee Rose 52PN 40CH 8 red wine. 2008 and 2007 dosage 7.5g
Always a more elegant style – and the 2008 acidity adds some mineral citrus nuances. Excellent.

Rive Gauche – Rive Droite 2005 – 50CH 50PN. dosage 5g
Matured in oak barriques with no fining and no filtration. A very complex structured style, the oak adds some major complexity and length. SUPER

Cuvee Reserve 80PN 20CH 2009 base dosage 8g
Nice freshness and zip – maybe a little richer and rounder than previous versions – more red fruits. Classic entry level cuvee.

J.L.Vergnon – Le Mesnil-sur-Oger

Christophe Constant is at the helm and doing some great things – now in the village top 5 producers at least. Disgorgement dates are all stamped on the corks. Month, Year and Year of tirage.

Cuvee Conversation – 100CH 2007 base dosage 6g
Very pure chalky nose- wonderfull intensity – lots of finesse – very complex – blend of Le Mesnil, Oger and Avize. Some of the taille is used in this cuvee.

Cuvee Eloquence – 100CH 2006 base. Dosage Extra Brut.
Extra Brut, tight and mineral, pure and very very long. White floral overtones – vivacity in spades.

Resonance 2006. 100CH. Dosage 6g
Oh wow – the purity of the 2006 vintage – and the grapefruit and pineapple overtones – all blend seamlessly to make this so intensely complex. Balance and finesse. Stunning.

Confidence 2006 Brut Nature 100CH.
Now sold out – really concentrated – fine mousse – and the new oak does not stand out – all in balance. No Malo and no dosage. Again quite stunning.

Confidence 2007 100CH Brut Nature.
This has more new oak and at the moment it appears quite noticeable – not due for release till later in the year – will ammeliorate into something quite special. Spice and citrus all entwined. Again quite stunning.

 

Francis Boulard – Cauroy-les-Hermonville

Les Murgiers 70PM,30PN 2009 + reserve wines.
a) dosage 5g/litre – crisp and tight with some round red fruit overtones.
b) Brut Nature -much more complex and interesting- nice purity and minerality.

Mailly Grand Cru 90PN 10CH 2008 + reserve wines.
a) Brut Nature – smokey and very mineral – quite pure pinot – complex and lovely length.
b) dosage 5g/litre – structured – honey and hazelnut, rounder and more supple – not a lot of difference between the two.

Blanc de Blancs – standard 2009 and reserve wines.
a) dosage 5g/litre – quite fat and rich – a big wine which maybe lacks a little elegance and makes up for it with power and weight.

Blanc de Blancs VV 2009 + reserve wines Bio
Very precise and intense – powerfull with good minerals – real length.  Impressive.

Les Rachais 2006 Nature 100CH
Quite youthfull – fresher than the 2005. Smoky with chalk overtones -  smoky confection and hints of herbs on the very long palate.

Petraea. 2007 blend. Nature.
Amazingly complex – perfect weight – spice and broad minerals – red and white fruits are all in balance allowing chalky characters to stand out. Excellent.

2005 Extra Brut 3g/litre 50CH 30PN 20PM.
Quite a big style – smoky and soft – great richness and will drink well early.

Rose saignee Extra Brut 50/50 PM PN, dosage 5g/l pure 2008.
Sour strawberries and cherries – nice smoky oak – hint of orange peel – really very very complex. Excellent.

 

Le Brun Servenay – Avize

Cuvee Reserve – 50CH, 25PN, 25PM from 2009 to 2006 material. Round and fruity, crisp and light, creamy and fresh, dosage 7.5g/l, malo is blocked for all cuvees.

Cuvee Selection – 50% 2009, 20% 2008, 20%2007 and 10% 2006,  100CH. Malo is blocked. Crisp and tight – minerality for sure with an airy floral overtone. Nice.

Millesime 2003. 100CH – frost damage and heat wave is always a recipe for something bizarre. Yields here were 25hl/ha vs normal 80hl/ha. Very intense from old vines – almost a liquer like intensity. Very good.

Exhilarante 2004 – 80CH,10PN,10PM. From the same ratio as vineyards planted. Dosage 7g/litre. Really quite toasty and smoky. Intense but with a lovely weight across the mid palate and finish. Very good.

Millesime 2004 VV.100CH – to be released later in the year. Closed but very mineral – lovely length – real class here – pure and citrus and chalk with much elegance. Dosage 7.5g/litre. Classic and quite special.

Cuvee Rose – same as selection but on a one year older blend. Made by addition of red wine – bright and crisp – all strawberries and cherries – lovely to drink now.

http://www.champagnelebrun.com

Masked wines.  1998 and 1997 VV. 1998 was rich and ripe with perfect balance. 1997 was a wet harvest with much treatment required – still rather nice – very mineral and very tight. Good at least.

Champagne Seleque – Pierry

Jean-Marc Seleque is slowly taking over running this property with some good wines already appearing.

Partition 2010 – under capsule . 75 CH, 12PN, 13PM. Malolactic has been done. Tight mineral – warm ripe Chardonnay – vivacity with lots of spice. Nice.

Partition 2010 – under cork. More vinous, spicier and rounder.

Partition 2008 – no malo. Perfect acidity, toasty and round. Also nice – for sale next year.

Brut Tradition. 55 CH,40PM,5PN. 15% of reserve wines in barrel. 2009 + reserve wines. Malo has been made, Mytik cork. Dosage 8g/l. Typical house style – round and toasty with nice purity.

Cuvee Speciale.This is at 7g/litre dosage, 60CH,30PM,10PN. Basically similar to above at one year older aging. Nice. 2008 base wine.

Cuvee Reserve, 60CH,30PM,10PN.6g/litre. 2007+ older reserve wines.  More creamy and rounder than above. 2007 base wine. Very complex and quite rich.

Cuvee Or Blanc.  100CH 2008. 40% in barrel, dosage 6g/litre.Spicy citurs with great intensity. Very Good.

Cuvee Comedie 2006. 75CH,10PM,15PN.Dosage 6g/litre. 40% in oak. A step up in complexity and spice. Purity of the vintage is really obnious. Great balance – a great wine.

Cuvee Rose. 85PN,15CH. All from 2008. Chardonnay in oak, with the Pinot being saignee 72 hours. Citrus and spice.Lovely weight and complexity.Really very very good.

Jacky Charpentier – Champagne – Villers-sous-Chatillon

Notes on April 2012 visit.

Extra Brut Blanc de Noirs – blend of 2008 + reserve wines. 50/50 PM , PN Dosage 3g/litre. Quite a golden rich color, savoury mineral nose with hints of earth and red fruits. Toasty and round but not too fat – really complex and interesting. A classic wine and really good value. Everyone would enjoy this with many foods.

Brut Tradition – blend of 2009+ reserve wines. 90PM 10CH Dosage 10g/litre. A richer and fruitier style than the Extra Brut. Complex and easy drinking.

Brut Reserve -blend of 2008 + reserve wines.80PM , 20PN Dosage 8.5g/litre. Similar to Tradition on an older base wine.Classic Marne Valley style – fruity with toasty overtones. Nice.

Brut Prestige – 2008 + reserve wines. 60PN, 20PM , 20CH. Dosage 8g/litre. Some of the reserve wines are oak matured.The Chardonnay adds heaps of elegance and complexity. We see a little more minerals and chalk now – leading to a long palate. Very classic and very nice.

Millesime 2004. 45PM, 30CH, 25PN. Dosage 6g/litre. Toasty and ripe but very complex with some spice and minerals. Really Excellent and typical of many great 2004 Champagnes that are just being released.

Comte Chenizot.33PM, 33PN, 33CH. Blend of 2003, 2004 and 2005. PM in oak. The flavor profile now moves to less red fruity and round – revealing white floral overtones and citrus. Lovely elegance and acidity. Very Good.

Cuvee Pierre Henri. 100PM from 2005 and 2004. Dosage 5g/litre. Small barrel aging and no malolactic. Here we see hints of dried apricots and minerals. A big wine but kept in check by lower dosage and blocking malo. Quite special.Very good.

Reserve Rose. Same as Cuvee Reserve with 8% red wine added. Dosage 9g/litre. Correct and easy to drink.

Prestige Rose. Same blend as Prestige with added red wine.With lovely strawberries and sour cherries. A step up over the regular rose. Superb.

Artisan Champagne Tasting at The French Brasserie

A great evening had by all – 65 Champagne aficionados. Wines on tasting were

1. J.L.Vergnon Cuvee Conversation Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru.
Crisp and complex, really complex savoury aromas – chalk and citrus but with hints of forest, palate is expansive and complex – a really superb entry level Champagne that drinks way way above its humble pedigree.

2. Launois Cuvee Quartz Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru.
Crisp and tight – leaner and greener style than the Vergnon – but with lively lifted fruits on the palate. Reliable and as good as always.

3. Lilbert Cuvee Reserve Grand Cru Blanc de Blanc.
All minerals, chalk, dried fruits – really complex but needs a few months in the cellar to blossom.

4. Jacques Lassaigne Les Vignes de Montgueux Blanc de Blancs.
Spice and smoke on the nose – oak aromas in abundance but this wine gets very little oak treatment. Palate has the classic chalk and quince of the area – huge length. Superb.

5. Voirin-Jumel Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs.
Pure and elegant – not a big wine – all in balance with lovely white fruits and citrus.

6. Francis Boulard Les Murgiers Blanc de Noirs.
Smoke and red fruits here – lovely spice – great balance and lovely mousse.

7. Francis Boulard Millesime 2005.
More finessefull version of the Les Murgiers – complexity and spice – great food wine.

8. Francis Boulard Rose Saignee.
An elegant saignee rose – nice citrus tang, lovely crushed strawberry aromas. Perfect with food or aperitif.

9. Eric Rodez Crayeres Grand Cru.
Great richness and savoury spice – minerals and lovely salty overtones. Superb.

10. Laherte Brut Tradition.
White stone fruits in abundance with lovely acidity and balance. A great wine for such a humble cuvee.

11. Laherte 2007 Les Vignes d’Autrefois.
Pure Meunier – wow – this is huge – over the top on all fronts and can be cellared – will become something very special in two years.

12. Henriet-Bazin Blanc de Noirs Grand Cru.
Ruch red fruits. All round fun wine which everyone likes!

13. Jacky Charpentier Prestige.
Really elegant – poise and finesse – great length and just a hint of spicey oak. Very popular.

14. Jean Vesselle Saignee Rose.
A sparkling red burgundy almost – great food wine – with quail or guinea fowl.

15. Marc Hebrart Cuvee Selection.
Lovely weight and sophistication – the elegance of Mareuil-sur-Ay shines strongly in this one!