The Voirin-Jumel household is typical of many vigneron relationships in France. Patrick Voirin’s family had vineyards in Grand Cru Cramant, and Valerie Jumel’s family owned vineyards in Chouilly. So the synthesis is a happy mix. They own 12 hectares of vines spanning the villages of Cramant, Avize, Oger, Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Vertus, Oiry, Verneuil and Chouilly – and vines have an average age of 30 years. Impressive indeed !! All this helps them to produce a small range of very individual and elegant wines.
Being only a young family, quality is on the improve as Patrick gains more and more experience and confidence. His Meursault oak matured Cuvée 555 made from 100% Cramant Grand Cru fruit is an exciting and vibrant Champagne if you like the oakier richer style. Other cuvées include a pure Blanc de Blancs 1er Cru from Vertus and a rich NV rosé from Mareuil-sur-Aÿ and Aÿ pinot noir. Using a modern horizontal automated press allows Patrick to keep a tight reign on the quality and consistency of the final product. The Vintage Cuvée Grand Cru and NV Cuvée Grand Cru are generally a mix of the best parcels of Grand Cru Cramant and Chouilly. Dosages are all on the low side, allowing for the terroir to speak clearly and forcefully. Tom Stevenson, the great English Champagne author, appears to have discovered Voirin-Jumel – he lavishes the Cuvée 555 with much praise indeed – One of the very best of the distinctly oaky Champagnes from small casks that I have tasted recently is Voirin-Jumel Cuvée 555 – maybe too much – so prices will no doubt be on the rise! One of the surprise Cuvée is the single vineyard Pinot Noir from Mareuil-sur-Ay – Les Carelles – full of elegance and freshness.
In 2013, Alice Voirin won the ‘Les Jeunes Talents du Champagne’ Chardonnay category – with the Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs NV. It is a prestigious award, Emmanuel Fourny won it in 2012. The judging is very tough with many industry sector professionals as judges.
The style here is all about citrus elegance and almost steely finesse. The 1er Cru Blanc de Noir from a single vineyard in Mareuil-sur-Ay shows classic elegance and piercing red fruits. The entire range is true to terroir. The Vintage wine and Cuvee 555 do not go thru malolactic to preserve freshness.