Jose Michel - Moussy

Just 7km south west of Epernay we find the little village of Moussy. José has 12 hectares of vines spread across Moussy, Pierry and Dormans. Moussy and Dormans being perfect for Pinot Meunier and a little Pinot Noir whilst Pierry having lovely minerality and flintiness for Pinot Meunier and a little Chardonnay. Moussy and Pierry are just over the hill from the Cotes des Blancs and have some nice minerality and purity in common. Pinot Meunier makes for 50%, Chardonnay 40% and Pinot Noir 10%. Soils are limestone and marly clay. Paul Michel (1860-1936) started the business by selling his first Champagne in 1912. Raymond Michel (1902-1971) continued the tradition and enlarged the vineyard holding.

1955 was José's first vintage and we were privileged to taste both his 1955 and 1973 100% Pinot Meunier Champagnes (27 April 2005). 1955 was Victor’s birth year and this wine was an absolute revelation - pure - intense - crisp - lovely warmth and finesse - unctuous - hints of hazelnut and honey – a perfect mousse and disgorged on the spot with no dosage - quite superb for a 50 year old!! José is the recognised guru of Pinot Meunier production and has many old cuvées to prove it, but oddly enough these days he no longer makes a pure 100% Pinot Meunier but blends a little Chardonnay into all the cuvées. Now his son Bruno in Pierry makes the 100% Pinot Meunier. Go figure. Bruno helped with the family for a number of years but decided to go his own way and make a niche for himself.

Pinot Meunier is the much maligned variety in the holy trilogy – no doubt - it being haphazardly planted in poor soils and frost prone areas. But when Pinot Meunier is planted in prestigious vineyard locations with sympathetic terroir and careful control of yields along with old vines – something very special happens. Well lets face it, on average, 33% of Krug is Pinot Meunier! Fermentations are a mix of tank and old large oak foudres. Malolactic fermentation may be partially blocked in his top cuvées. José’s entire range is exceptional – the culmination being his vintage ‘Special Club’.