Bruno Michel - Pierry

Bruno cultivates 13 ha of vines in chalk and marly soil in Pierry, with the mix being 50% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Meunier and 10% Pinot Noir. Bruno has fourty parcels of vines all situated in prestigious mid-slope positions. Vine age varies between 30 and 72 years for the oldest parcel. Yields are very low, with Bruno only producing 70,000 bottles from his vineyards which is 50% of the normal allowed production. The cuverie was renovated in 1998, thus allowing Bruno a little more space to work with – he has 140 second hand barrels from Bonneau du Martray to keep him busy. Subtle use of oak and stainless steel allows Bruno to create a very complex array of authentic artisan Champagnes.  He believes that it is an advantage having 1er cru vineyards so close to the Cote des Blancs. He has varying soil types – chalk, limestone, marls etc. and he can carefully select the best variety to cultivate to suit the soil type, being either Pinot Noir, Meunier or Chardonnay.

Bruno - son of the great José Michel, learned much from his father - especially that well cultivated Pinot Meunier can produce sensational Champagne. It is interesting that José no longer makes a pure 100% Pinot Meunier Champagne, but Bruno does – Cuvée Clement. Whereas his father uses very old large oak for initial fermentation, Bruno has taken a far more pragmatic approach - and realises that the sensitive use of small and large oak for fermentation and maturation can add complexity and finesse without extinguishing the terroir. By fermenting in small barriques Bruno has greater control of yeast selection and batonnage. All barrels are taste blind to assess which cuvée they are destined for. Also Bruno has converted a small 2ha parcel of vines to bio-dynamic. A very impressive range of Champagnes indeed and we will be importing other cuvées over the coming months. There is certainly a strong resemblance to the great wines of Anselme Selosse with some of these cuvées – the main difference being that Bruno’s are more sympathetic to not extinguishing the terroir – and a great deal cheaper. Also he has adopted a very modern approach to his labels. The new style is very eclectic yet keeping to tradition. 60% is exported with the biggest market being Italy and then the US.

Pierry is a tiny village with a population of a little over 1300 people just a few kilometres south of Epernay. All the vineyards are east or south-east facing. Pierry derives its name from a layer of flint in the soil which gives the wines real minerality and finesse.  Its wines were often regarded to be of equal quality to Ay.

Neil Becket in Harper’s Champagne review 2006 says… Here is another exciting house that has been created almost from nothing through application, passion and vision.