Veuve Fourny - Vertus

Madame Fourny and her two sons, Emmanuel and Charles-Henry, have a small holding of 9 hectares of Premier Cru vineyards in the Côte des Blanc – with optimal exposures of South and South-East and an average vine age of 35 years. The varietal mix is 85% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Noir and 5% Pinot Meunier. Principal markets are France, Belgium and Japan. Neither chemicals nor fertilizers are used in the vineyards and farming is a synthesis of biodynamic and organic.

All the champagnes are aged for a minimum of 3 years prior to disgorgement and a further 6 months afterwards. They produce benchmark Blanc de Blancs which are medium-bodied, rich and creamy and have great elegance and style. Emmanuel worked in Burgundy for a number of years and is applying his knowledge from extended lees contact and oak maturation to gain better flavor. Also he is sympathetically working with blocking the malolactic fermentation in certain percentages of the cuvées to gain some aromatic complexities. Also dosages at Veuve Fourny are very low – they believe in allowing the terroir to speak.

The Veuve Fourny pride and joy is their tiny .22 ha walled vineyard called ‘Le Clos Notre-Dame’ which is right next to their property (photo below) – with a tiny production of 2,000 bottles. A 50 year old very chalky 100% Chardonnay vineyard with the wine being fully vinified in oak. Vertus is substantially higher and cooler than nearby Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and that is why the Vertus wines have just that hint of extra acid and floral overtones. The Vertus appellation allows for Pinot Noir to be grown which is good if you want to make a rosé. Many respected oenologists and viticulteurs believe that the Vertus 1er Cru rating of 95% is no longer appropriate and it is worthy of Grand Cru status. Le Mesnil-sur-Oger only attained Grand Cru status in 1985! Also it appears that the ‘cat is out of the bag’ about the sensational quality of the Veuve Fourny Champagnes. The great U.S. importer Kermit Lynch has negotiated to be the sole importer of Veuve Fourny into America. Very much an up and coming producer – great quality price rapport! And also ‘Burghound’ has started reviewing Champagnes – and as heaped much praise indeed on Fourny.