The Voirin-Jumel household is typical of many vigneron relationships in France. Patrick Voirin’s family had vineyards in Grand Cru Cramant, and Valerie Jumel’s family owned vineyards in Chouilly. So the synthesis is a happy mix. They own 12 hectares of vines spanning the villages of Cramant, Avize, Oger, Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Vertus, Oiry, Verneuil and Chouilly – and vines have an average age of 30 years. Impressive indeed !! All this helps them to produce a small range of very individual and elegant wines.
Being only a young family, quality is on the improve as Patrick gains more and more experience and confidence. His Meursault oak matured Cuvée 555 made from 100% Cramant Grand Cru fruit is an exciting and vibrant Champagne if you like the oakier richer style. Other cuvées include a pure Blanc de Blancs 1er Cru from Vertus and a rich NV rosé from Mareuil-sur-Aÿ and Aÿ pinot noir. Using a modern horizontal automated press allows Patrick to keep a tight reign on the quality and consistency of the final product. The Vintage Cuvée Grand Cru and NV Cuvée Grand Cru are generally a mix of the best parcels of Grand Cru Cramant and Chouilly. Dosages are all on the low side, allowing for the terroir to speak clearly and forcefully. Tom Stevenson, the great English Champagne author, appears to have discovered Voirin-Jumel – he lavishes the Cuvée 555 with much praise indeed – One of the very best of the distinctly oaky Champagnes from small casks that I have tasted recently is Voirin-Jumel Cuvée 555 – maybe too much – so prices will no doubt be on the rise! One of the surprise Cuvée is the single vineyard Pinot Noir from Mareuil-sur-Ay – Les Carelles – full of elegance and freshness.
In 2013, Alice Voirin won the ‘Les Jeunes Talents du Champagne’ Chardonnay category – with the Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs NV. It is a prestigious award, Emmanuel Fourny won it in 2012. The judging is very tough with many industry sector professionals as judges.
The style here is all about citrus elegance and almost steely finesse. The 1er Cru Blanc de Noir from a single vineyard in Mareuil-sur-Ay shows classic elegance and piercing red fruits. The entire range is true to terroir. The Vintage wine and Cuvee 555 do not go thru malolactic to preserve freshness.
Champagne Voirin-Jumel Blanc de Noirs 1er Cru.
Based on the 2014 vintage with 20% reserve wines, dosage at 7gm/litre is perfect. From a single 1.48 hectare Pinot Noir vineyard in Mareuil-sur-Ay – Les Carelles. Mareuil-sur-Ay is Billecart Salmon territory, and here the Pinot is always delicate and subtle, hints of strawberry and red fruits, perfume and spice. The novice Champagne drinker may recoil at the notion of drinking a 100% Pinot Noir Champagne, but this wine reveals the purity and elegance of the terroir and competent wine making. A bargain basement wine from a great base vintage, extremely popular and very well received. In the scheme of things, this wine is way under priced. It simply delivers! A new shipment.
Champagne Voirin-Jumel Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru.
Based on 2014 with 20% reserve wines, from Cramant, Chouilly, Avize and Oger. Dosage 6g/litre. The Chardonnay terroir speaks, Chiseled and steely, with citrus and minerals, hints of white fruits and floral. Very precise and elegant as always and excellent value. The creaminess of the Cramant component sets the tone for a fine and elegant Champagne. Again this cuvee has been very popular – a new shipment.
Champagne Voirin-Jumel Blanc de Blancs Vintage 2010.
The 2010 vintage is a real success for the top growers in the Cote des Blancs – and Patrick Voirin has really delivered a precise mineral champagne. I see some similarities with 2008 at this property. Hugely mineral with real purity and amazing elegance. Dosage is 4g/litre and the malolactic fermentation is blocked. Fermented and aged in stainless steel tank. Purer and finer than the 2009 vintage wine. Only a small allocation at pre-arrival pricing.
Champagne Voirin-Jumel Blanc de Blancs Cuvee 555
Based on 2012 with reserve wines, dosage 6g/litre. The 555 is the ultimate flagship wine in the range. Fermented and aged in barrel with no malolactic fermentation. The power and purity of the 2012 vintage plays perfectly with the oak and malic acidity. From old vines in Cramant and Avize. Very limited. And why 555? This is their house address number in the main street of Cramant. And 555 is the distance in metres from the old well in the centre of Cramant.